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Frederick Magazine - November 01, 2001
The Tapas Experience
Dan Patrell
It's one of those unexplained rules that usually comes true - a restaurant's appetizers will outshine its entrées. There could be a psychology at play if it's your first time there, and the restaurant wants to make a great impression. After your waiter serves your drinks, nothing makes more of a splash than an appetizer that looks beautiful and tastes somewhat adventurous, maybe even exotic.
So the question remains, if the second offering rarely matches up with the first, why not just bring another round of appetizers?
Hey... what a concept!
Actually, it's a concept that has been around for quite some time in larger metropolitan areas, but in Frederick this is exciting new territory, and the eatery staking it out exclusively is Isabella's in downtown Frederick, a tapas restaurant that offers Fredericktonians and visitors an entirely new way to dine.
According to corporate chef Frank Tyeryar (Chef Frank oversees Brewer's Alley menu, as well) the term "tapas" originated in Spain more than a century earlier. What started with a piece of bread to cover a glass of sherry has evolved into "little dishes" that are eaten at all times of the day. "In Spain, it's not unusual for someone to stand behind the bar, quickly eat a small plate of food, then go on their way," he says.
At Isabella's, the tapas-style eatery has been transformed into a unique dining experience, one that is fun, adventurous, and a great way to share food and conversation with friends and family. Chef Frank has created a menu consisting of dozens of tapas, each having a distinct Spanish influence (expect the menu too change often), and has left the restaurant in the capable hands of Chef James Johns, who personally oversees the creation of each tapas served.
Like any restaurant, when you first arrive, you and your guests will be presented a menu. If it's your first visit to Isabella's, be prepared to be overwhelmed when opening it. The entire left side consists of tapas calientes (hot tapas). The right side, tapas frias (cold tapas). If you don't know what to select, do what we did. Ask your server and manager to bring out their favorites. Our server, Josh Wack, suggested Grilled Lamb Chops with a Black Currant Sauce (at $7.50, one of the pricier tapas, but well worth it), two chops of succulent lamb that are absolute heaven when paired with its currant sauce. They're even better when you enjoy them with Rioja, a Spanish red from Isabella's wine list, which (if you had any doubt) is exclusively Spanish.
Katie Goglia, manager, introduced us to Fried Goat Cheese and Almond Fritters (at $4.25, this is the price range of most tapas, give or take), which were, like, wow. I recognize that "wow" is not an authentic food story term, but if you've had these, then you know that "wow" may be the best way to describe them.
A personal favorite was Marinated Anchovies. Please don't think of those dark salty things that appear on your pizzas. When enjoyed with fresh bread, these (one of the Chef's favorites) are fresh, light, flavorful - and authentically Spanish. A special that night that will soon join the regular menu (deservedly so) is Warm Melted Brie on a Garlic Croustade. Served with toasted almond butter and a wedge of orange, the trio of brie, butter, and orange makes for an indescribable sensation that is meant to be shared with someone you love.
To make the most of your dining experience, consider these time. First, order your tapas in waves. you server will keep the menu at the table, so there's no need to order everything at once. For each person, order two or three different tapas (each one is slightly smaller than an ordinary appetizer). Enjoy. Order a couple more. Enjoy those. Continue as desired or for however long your wine lasts, whichever comes first.
Second, save the sauces! Most of your tapas will be served with a sauce or a combination of sauces that begs to be scooped and savored even after you've kissed your lamb chops (or other tapas) goodbye.
Third, trust in your servers. They're a pleasant bunch, and can help with recommendations.
Fourth, save room for dessert, or as we did, the Spanish Cheese Tray, and a glass of sherry. They have four fantastic Spanish sherries, our favorite being Osbourne-Bailen Oloroso, which has a nutty start and finishes exquisitely dry.
Fifth, don't even try to sample everything on the menu. Just make plans to visit again and again. Isabella's enjoys a great location, whose intimate size works well with the "little dishes" that are served throughout the day.
It's a great night out and a new way to dine. It's a lot of little bites, which add up to an evening filled with wonderful tastes. There's so many different tapas selections at Isabella's that you are virtually assured of an entirely new dining experience, every time you visit.
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